Author Archives: sflemag

VV8678 – Gloss Black

Post from…

Letting go of my black cnc x mag all original I programmed it with the 1.8 original barrell charger this is my all time favorite gun but at 63 it’s time to start letting someone else enjoy it as much as I did , pics on demand as I can’t seem to put anything up on here. Its a 10/10 gun well taken of $1500 shipped

Red to Clear Fade

Red to clear fade CnC Xmag on Facebook…

Loguzzo Xmag

my business has been slow, had to borrow some cash. time to pay the piper. have already sold my viking, and my other treasured pb markers. i held on as long as I could to this one. but the lenders are calling and i need to pay up.

one off Xmag, built by JOhn Loguzzo, yes he knows I am selling it. this is one of the hardest things I have had to liquidate. MOTM and MOTY winner 2012, this thing is by far my favorite EVER paintball marker I have owned. I am selling this all together as a complete package, i dont have the time to sit here and part all of this stuff. there is one complete xvalve, the rest of the valves are bodies, some may have parts some dont. the other is an Xvalve valve body, no rear internals. there are tons of mag parts in these 3 bins of stuff. everything in the picture is included in this sale.

I am asking 3200 for everything pictured.

2500 for the mag
600 for the rest of the goodies.

thanks, hopefull it will go to a good home. has not been shot in a few years, will need a tune up.



VV04795 Black to Red Fade

Up for sale is my Black to Red Xmag.

Extreme CNC
ULE Trigger
Full Freak Kit with All American Tip.

$850.00 o.b.o Paypaled Includes Shipping
Will ship after Paypal has Cleared.

XT00380 – Dust Black

$1000 shipped USPS Priority and PayPaled. Additional insurance, signature required at delivery, etc. will be extra. No trades. No parting.

-Dust Black X-Mag: Everything works as it should, including ACE. See pictures. I tried to capture all the tiny blemishes. The camera wouldn’t focus on some, especially the ones around the back where the valve is inserted into the body, but they are no worse than the others pictured.
-X-Mod 1.8 with Programmer/Applications/Files/USB Cable: All applications/files will be e-mailed to the buyer. The various files change the trigger pulls per second required to activate the ramping modes.
-Battery (holds a charge well), Car charger, and Wall Charger
-Level 10 Spare Parts (as pictured)
-Misc Parts: trigger magnets, battery savers, quad o-ring (as pictured)
-Check It Drop Forward: See pictures for scratches and poor filing job to eliminate rear sharp overhang when ASA was mounted.
-CP Mini On/Off ASA

Videos and links to feedback from various sites available upon request.

XT00301 – Gloss Silver

This item was bought in a lot of other paintball items. Last time it was tested it worked great!
It comes with the car charger, the adaptor you plug the battery in. The battery does hold a charge very well and it has a switch to turn the battery on. I can include a predator board for an additional $50

$850 shipped OBO

XT00358 – Red to Clear Fade

“AGD Xmag. If you don’t know the history do the research. Arguably the most desirable mag ever produced behind the sfl. Less than 500 produced. This has got to be the nicest fade Anno one I have acquired. Functions flawlessly. Took me years to hunt one down in this condition. This marker will provide a lifetime of joy. Spend your tax return on something you will love.

Charger included. Max flo is brand new and will come with original box and accessories. Battery holds great charge. Safety is included.
Check out our store for more rare paintball items”


<div style=”width:480px;text-align:right;”><a href=”javascript:void(0);” target=”_blank”><img src=”; style=”border:none;” /></a><a href=”; target=”_blank”><img src=”; style=”border:none;” alt=”robballesteros’s  album on Photobucket” /></a></div>

CnC Picture Gallery

Currently unavailable.

“John Sosta” Dark Tequila X-mag MOTM Winner

The Beginning:

In July 2012 I saw a post from Bolter on AO, selling a lot of three Xmags from the UK. I quickly recognized the “parts” xmag and made a full price offer plus shipping to the US.

This xmag reminded me of a picture from 2002 at the campaign cup with the same grip frame milling and it looked like it was from the same batch of Euro Xmags that John Sosta milled back in 2002.

I spoke with Vicki (the seller who played on John’s team) and she stated that this gun may have been used at the Campaign Cup the same year all of the early Warpig pictures of the Xmags came out.

While patiently waiting for my xmag to go through customs I decided to create a parts list and track down the hard to find items on
Battery / Battery Pack with milling
PMI Perfect Bore Barrel
Vert Breach
Warp Breach
Ultralight Barrel
Bob Long ASA
Orange LED Screen

Custom work:

I contacted a handful of machinist, but most of them had crazy timelines for completion. I reached out to Renie from AO and asked if he could “recreate” the John Sosta pack from the old warpig picture I had. He said he was able to get it pretty close so I decided to ship out an extra battery housing I had in my stockpile of parts to europe. While he was working on the battery housing I continued my search for parts.

Luckily, SSP Reaper found my WTB thread and hooked me up with a PMI Perfect Bore barrel, the same barrel that all the Euro Xmags had when they first came out. It always seems like this part is one of the hardest parts to find anymore. Most are stainless steel or ceramic so I was excited to see that he had one for me.

I also reached out to Tunaman to get the Vert and Warp breaches for the set-up. Breaches are also really hard to find so I knew this would be one of the more expensive costs for the build. Unfortunately, when they arrived I realized that the Vert breach did not have the CnC milling on it.

I contacted Luke@lukecustoms and he was able to work out the milling on the vert breach. He needed to see the Xmag body for the body lines. I decided to package of both the Xmag body, CnC Warp breach, and the gripframe. Once Luke was finished with the milling he was going to forward the package to Tunaman so he could remove the steel body insert and gripframe stud for anodizing.

While that was going on I found the rest of the parts on Mcarterbrown, AO, and pbnation. Digikey had yellow screens in stock so I ordered one to complete the build. I really had my heart set for an orange, but with a minimum order of 1000 screens I had no choice. Luckily the yellow screens look orange anyway.

Luke finished up the milling and sent over the parts to Tunaman. A few weeks later I recieved my package. Everything looked great from Luke and Tunaman, except I was missing the black warp breach I sent over with the body so luke could match the lines correctly. Unfortuantely, Luke and Tunaman were not able to find the part in their shops so I was **** outta luck. I take their words for it, but I was pretty bummed my $100 breach vanished into thin air.

I reached out to AGD direct to buy another “CnC” warp left breach and when I finally got it, I opened it up and realized that it STILL DID NOT HAVE THE CNC MILLING. Lol. :-/

Renie sent me a message saying the milling was complete. I was super excited to get it back. When the package arrived I quickly opened it up and attempted to put the battery pack back together. Sure enough I forgot to tell Renie that the battery pack actually sits a certain way, it was not interchangable because of the screws that hold the pack together. I was a bit bummed since he did such a great job “recreating” the battery housing.

Once I assembled the Xmag it wasn’t as bad as I thought it was and actually started to like the look of the inverted waves. It looked like they were swooping down towards the unique grip frame milling that John did on it. It may look a bit rough in the pictures, but after a bit of polishing I knew it would look great.

After I collected the rest of the parts I went online to find an anodizer. No one seems to be very reliable anymore. I went on pbnation and stumbled on a user named “xsvdynastypballa” that was custom anodizing his own guns in the Custom Guns section. I really liked his finishes and decided to take a leap of faith to get my marker done by him.

I sent him an e-mail and we started talking about the process of finishing up the John Sosta Xmag. I really wanted to keep the original tequila fade, but wanted some depth to it. Xsvdynastypballa a.k.a Stephen showed me some work he did in the past and I gave him the creative green light to finish my marker. I still needed a little bit of custom work to finish up the warp breach to have the same milling lines as the xmag. Luckily he had the ability to do straight cuts and could handle it for me.

I went ahead and packaged and labeled the parts and shipped them off to texas.

The Finish:

Within a day of receiving my parts he quickly stripped off the anodizing and started polishing. While polishing the marker the buffer slipped out of his hands and nicked the custom milled battery pack that Renie worked on. He sent pictures of what had happened and let me know the results. Even though it sucks to get that e-mail I was glad he let me know about it.

A couple days later I receive a few pictures of the marker. I was blown away by the results. The dark tequila sunrise fade was amazing, it looked like the black was dripping off the marker. You could tell he hand polished each piece to perfection.

A few more days go by and Stephen shows me the finished product. It was exactly what I wanted. We closed out the deal and it was ready to be sent back home.

The marker spent a couple days in the mail, but I was finally reunited with the marker. The finish was top notch. Stephen couldn’t of done a better job. The Xmag was really beat up yet he still made it look like it was a custom finish from AGD. Each part looked like he truly took the time and put all of his hard work into it. I can’t even describe how smooth the polishing is. The nick on the battery pack didn’t really matter, it was blended with the anodizing and when I screw together all of the battery pieces it was a snug fit.

I’ve used many anodizers in the past to finish my mags, Precisionpb, gruntbull, lasermygun, Tonsixer, PK Selective, but Caustic Customs (Stephan’s new company) had the best communication out of all of them. He really treated the project like his own. He took pride in his work and was vocal if he had any questions about the xmag.

I decided to attempt to take a picture of this marker in a light tent I made and snap a few pictures with my iphone 5. It was so hard to take a good picture of this marker though. The colors were so deep and every angle seem to reflect and shine the light.

Through all of the problems with the marker I never felt pissed, I realized I contacted all the right guys for the job. And they all worked hard to get this marker to look as good as it does. It was a fun experience tracking down all of the parts and talking with Stephen about the finishing. The marker is still not 100% with the electronics, but i’m waiting for a few more projects to come back from anodizing before I send it to an expert.

I just wanted to say thanks to Vicki, John, Bolter, Renie, Tunaman, Luke, Stephen @ Caustic Customs, SSP Reaper, and everyone else who hooked me up with parts for this build.

A-Tach-One old Xmag collection

A-Tach-One was a former X-mag collector, until he got out of the mag collecting business.  It was quite impressive how many SFLs and Xmags he had accumulated over the years.  We give him credit with figuring out the slight differences in each batch of Xmags AGD put out…

void(0) atachcollection1jj6 egunsxu9

G. Knight Collection

G. Knight has a great collection of X-mags.  We figured that we needed to create his own page to show off some of his Xmags…

DSC_1196 DSC_1198 DSC_1199 DSC_1200 DSC_1201 DSC_1202 DSC_1203 DSC_1205 DSC_1206


Airgun Designs X-mag Battery prototype pictures.  Quote prototype website and EricAGD






Prototype X-mag Battery from AGDE:


Prototype Rounded X-mag Battery pack.  Non-functional display.



Concepts from Airgun Designs.






These pictures are from the first batches for RobAGD @ Pev’s   Note that a few had duel detents on the breach.

Black to Blue X-mag:




Clear to Blue X-mag:


Gloss Black X-mag:


Gloss Green X-mag:



Dust Black X-mag:

matte-black matte-black2

Gloss Pewter X-mag:

pewter pewter2

Gloss Black to Purple X-mag:


Purple X-mag:


Black to Red X-mag:


Clear to Red X-mag:



A+ Anodizing worked on the first batch of X-mags that were released to the public.  We believe that this group falls into the valve range from XT00100 through XT00115.  The clear to pink X-mag looks like the X-Kitty and the blue to dark blue looks like Josh Silverman’s from PB2X.  If you have anymore information about this batch feel free to comment below!!

Yellow to Green X-mag:


Yellow to Orange X-mag:


Pewter to Dark Silver X-mag:


Black to Red X-mag:


Clear to Red X-mag:


Blue to Dark Blue X-mag:


Vertical Fade Lightening X-mag:


Clear to baby blue fade X-mag:


Clear to pink fade X-mag:


Below are custom made X-mags from A+ Anodizing, we believe these were NOT apart of the original batch.

Red, white, and blue X-mag:


Acidwash X-mag:


Red Leopard spot X-mag:


Black to Silver Triple Fade X-mag:

db_emag11 db_emag21

Camo X-mag:

db_Xmagcamo1 db_ccmag1

Automags. UK

: E Mag and X Mag

The Emag and Xmag are the top of the food chain in the world of Airgun Designs. These badboys boast fully adjustable magnetic triggers, a fail-safe mechanical over-ride, ultra-low profiles, the proven anti-chop system the level 10, and the fastest recharging valve in the world.
The Emag and Xmag constitute the entire AGD electrical marker line and have few differences between them. In this section I will give you all the information you could need for both markers. I’m not going to get into the operation of the entire valve. However I will do my best to cover everything I can think of in the debugging section. If you have any other questions, contact me.____________________________________________________________________________
1. About the Emag and Xmag Valve
2. General Differences
3. Adjusting the Trigger
4. Charging the Battery
5. Adjusting the A.C.E. (Xmag)
6. Board Firmware Versions 
7. Nubbins and Ball Detents
8. Powerfeed Plugs
9. Marker Maintainence
10. What Not to Do
11. Debugging
12. Aftermarket Parts 
13. Upgrades

1. About the Emag and Xmag Valve
The Emag/Xmag valve is identical to the RT/RTP/X valve(see About the RT/RTP Valve) with a different logo engraved on the outside. The valve does however require a different on/off pin length(.712″) (Sear tolerance for Emag/Xmag – trigger rod 2.125″, plunger rod 3.008″) and a special o’ring in the on/off assembly called the “Quad o’ring”. The Quad o’ring(pictured below) is seamless in the center and is used to reduce drag on the on/off pin that caused hang-ups with the standard o’ring that has a seam in the center. The drag was caused by the added weight of the sear over the RT/RTP sear.

**The ULE Trigger Pull Kit is NOT recommended for the Emag or Xmag.

Quad O’ring

2. General Differences
Both the Emag and Xmag have three modes of operation. Mechanical mode(selector switch lever in the 9 o’clock position and the battery off)(operates without the electronics), Electronic mode(selector switch lever in the 6 o’clock position and the battery on)(operates like a normal electric marker with a magnetic switch), and Hybrid mode(selector switch lever in the 9 o’clock position with the battery ON)(trigger is actuated electronically with a mechanical trigger response).
There’s the Emag and ULE Emag. When the Emag first came out, it was heavy(bout 3.4lbs.). Now with all the ULE(ultra light engineering) parts, you can upgrade to, or buy a ULE Emag which performs the same but at almost a full pound lighter (bout 2.5lbs.)
The Xmag(2.7lbs without barrel) is pretty much the same thing as an Emag cept for a few details. The biggest difference lies in the aluminum body with interchangeable breeches(accepts cocker threaded barrels). This takes the place of the standard body and rail for the Emag. The Xmag also has an adjustable A.C.E. with an on/off switch.

3. Adjusting the Trigger
There are three different ways to adjust the Emag/Xmag trigger, pull weight, pull length, and how soon the pull is recognized. The Emag/Xmag trigger is magnetic so with no mircoswitch, there is almost no limit to how heavy or light you can make your pull. With the three adjustment points together, you can truly get the pull you desire from a marker.
To adjust the trigger, you must first remove the trigger frame and battery from the rest of the marker. After degassing, there is three screws that need to be removed, the valve field strip screw, the front frame screw, and the sear axle pin(on the left side of the rail for Emag / left side of Body for Xmag). you can remove all three screws using a 1/8 allen wrench.

To test your pull, hook up the battery and turn on the frame. Slightly lift the back of the sear with your finger and pull. The pic shows the marker in mechanical mode but to test your trigger for reliability you will need it in electric mode. (Use this method if your firmware does not have a trigger test feature.)

The first step is to get a pull weight that you are happy with. To adjust the weight, remove the magnets from the frame so you can determine your starting point. If you want a heavier pull, simply add more magnets(AGD uses earth magnets) or remove any shims that may be in use. If you want a lighter pull, either remove magnets until there is only one left, and/or use something not metallic(o’ring, paper, etc.) as a shim to increase the distance between the magnet in the frame and the magnet in the top of the trigger. On the Xmag, the magnets are located under the ace board, simply unscrew the board to get in there. (this adjustment is only for electric mode)

The easiest way to remove a magnet from the frame is to put the marker in mechanical mode, pull the trigger back and use an allen wrench to attract the magnet from the frame.

The next step is to adjust the pull length. Make sure the selector switch lever is in the E(6 o’clock) position. Using a 1/16 allen wrench inserted in the top of the selector switch, turn clockwise to shorten pull length and counter-clockwise to increase it. The set screw can be adjusted so the trigger has enough play to hit the selector switch or not move at all. When shortening the trigger pull, constantly test with every adjustment that the pull is still registered. To make sure you have a reliable pull, push the trigger to the right side and pull while pushing to the right. Do the same pushing the trigger to the left side.(this adjustment is only for electric mode)

The last adjustment is the firing point(where in the stroke the trigger is recognized by the H.E.S.) The H.E.S.(Hall Effect Sensor) looks for a magnetic field(the magnet in back of the trigger). In order for the H.E.S. to know when the trigger is being pulled and not being pulled, the trigger magnet must be close enough for the H.E.S. to sense it when the trigger is pulled but also far enough for the H.E.S. to not sense it when the trigger is not being pulled. For a reliable pull, you want the magnet to be sensed anywhere from the middle to just before the end of the stroke. Insert the same 1/16 allen wrench in front of the trigger. Clockwise moves the magnet closer to the H.E.S.. Counter-clockwise moves the magnet further away. Remember to do the push to the side and pull test. (this adjustment effects both electric mode and hybrid mode.)

If the trigger pull is not registering properly or the board will not boot up properly
If the trigger magnet is too close to the H.E.S. when the trigger is NOT being pulled, the L.E.D. will either not show anything when you turn off and on the battery, or there will be a bunch of characters that dont make sense.
solution – back the magnet out until the board boots up normally
If the trigger magnet is too far from the H.E.S. when the trigger IS being pulled, you will either not register a trigger pull, or it will only register a pull while pulling the trigger straight back or only to one side. Remember, a reliable pull needs to be registered while pushing the trigger from both sides.
solution – If no pull is being registered or a pull is only registered when pulling the trigger straight back and/or from one side only there may be different ways to solve this. Either the magnet is too far back,  the trigger pull has been adjusted to be too short, or a combination of the both. If you want to keep that pull length, try moving the magnet closer to the H.E.S. Remember the board may not boot up properly if the magnet is too close. Also remember to keep the firing point between the middle to just before the end of the stroke. You may have to give a little more play in the pull length to get a reliable pull.

4. Charging the Battery
The most valuable information you could have about your charger is not to lose it. It’s a very expensive replacement part($80) due to all the labor it takes to build it properly. This is why it’s also not a good idea to try and build your own charger. When charging the battery in the car, only use the cord supplied by AGD. If you want a wall charger, not just anything will do. Go to Radio Shack and buy thier 12-Volt 1500mA AC-to-DC Power Adapter($19.99)(pictured below). Make sure it has the blue tip with the tip inserted in the proper polarity! Dont charge your battery overnight. When it’s charging, you’ll see a red light. Green is supposed to be charged, but the light actually turns green once the battery has about a 80% charge. You could leave it on for about another 30-60min to let it completely charge. A completely dead battery shouldn’t take longer than 4-6 hours to completely charge. A properly charged battery should read 20-22volts.

5. Adjusting the A.C.E. (Xmag)
I personally do not use my ace because my level 10 just works too good. However, if you do want to use it, adjust with a fine flat head screw driver as follows…
clockwise – more sensitive
counter-clockwise – less sensitive

Drop a ball in the breech with the sensitivity down and turn it up until it fires put the safety on so it doesn’t actually shoot, just listen for the solenoid when adjusting.
For two color paint, insert the paintball dark side down into the breech, adjust until the gun fires. Then turn clockwise 2 full turns
ace 1 – one color paint
ace 2 – two color paint

6. Board Firmware Versions 
If your wondering about the latest firmware out there and the differences between them, read on.
If you have anything pre – 1.37 your Emag severely needs to be flashed. 1.37 was the most common version and was around for a long time. It had a better memory, was capped at 16bps, had a game timer, shot counter, a total shot counter, low battery indicator, along with burst modes(with jumper). No full auto.
When the Xmag first came out 2.1 was released. The main difference was ace support. Everything pretty much remained the same. Burst modes were removed, and with the ace on the board would cap out at 24bps.
2.4 was released very soon after 2.1 which lowered the ace cap down to 20bps and had “ace 1”, “ace 2” for one and two color paint.
3.0 was released with a shot buffer(tells the board how soon it can look for another shot in ms.) also had a trigger test mode. This version had many bugs.
3.2 came right out after 3.0 which fixed the major bugs the new feature of 3.0 had.
4.0 official release to be announced. An even more improved version of 3.2 with added features. Debounce, capped at 26bps, different trigger test modes, solenoid toggle on/off, and a true bps counter.

7. Nubbins and Ball Detents
If you own any type of Automag with a stainless steel body, then you use nubbins as your ball detent. They mount on the barrel. The old version is the wire nubbin which did the job but eventually the plastic nubbin was made and released. Since the wire nubbin was around for a very long time, some companies that made aftermarket barrels for the Automag didnt feel the need to pay too close attention to detail. For this reason, on some aftermarket barrel the nubbin groove is slightly different so the new plastic nubbin doesn’t sit properly. By all means upgrade to plastic nubbins but if you notice that you are double loading, or you get radical velocity drop-off, then there is a chance that your nubbin may not be doing its job. In this case switch back to wire and see if the problem goes away.

Wire Nubbins

Plastic Nubbins

If you own an Xmag or any mag with a ULE body on it, then that means you have switched from nubbins to ball detents. The threading for the AGD detents is the same as the Angel. However, the AGD detents are made with a slightly larger bore around the ball. This gives the ball space to move rather than jamming up when a bolt with a higher boltspeed hits it. Even if you own an Angel, I highly recommend buying AGD detents. They are also insanely cheaper than other detents sold for the Angel and perform much better.

8. Powerfeed Plugs
Like barrel nubbins, there are older and newer versions of the powerfeed plug. You can easily check to see if you have an older one by looking for a flat spot instead of a constant “parabolic” curve. That flat spot kills feedrates, get upto speed with the newer parabolic plug.

*Thanks to RobAGD on AO for the pic.

9. Marker Maintainence
To keep your Emag or Xmag happy, just keep it charged, cleaned, and oiled.

Before every day of play.
1. Make sure your battery is charged.
2. Take the barrel off.
3. Put about 4 drops of oil in the asa or input to the valve.
4. Air up the marker and cycle it at least 40 times.
5. Your done.

At the end of every day.
1. Wipe off excess dirt, paint, etc. from the outside of the marker.
2. Take the valve out and wipe off any dirt, paint, etc. that may have collected around the bolt area.
3. Make sure the inside of your barrel is clean.
4. Repeat the before every day of play steps(omit step one).
5. Your done.

Depending how often you play and how down n dirty you get, every now and then you should fully strip your marker down to clean collected dirt, paint, etc from anywhere it may have collected(then oil it). When taking out the Reg. Piston and Spring pack, regrease them using any quality grease, the grease is there to prevent rusting, not to lubricate.

It’s very important to keep dirt and foreign debris out of the valve and air system. Some easy and effective steps are to use a good fill nipple cover and a thread saver cover if you use a screw in tank.

It’s always a good idea to have a little kit handy with extra o’rings and other parts that may wear or ruin, or parts that may be easy to lose like the field strip screw or a battery saver plug.

10. What Not to Do

The Basics
1. Dont loosen the field strip screw or the front frame screw while the marker is gassed up.
2. When you take apart the marker and reassemble it, make sure it has the Rail Bushing(pictured below). It goes in the rail and back of the trigger frame.

Rail Bushing
3. Don not try and run the Emag or Xmag with Co2.
4. When taking the valve out. After you have degassed, pull the trigger to release trapped air if you have the level 10(see level 10). After taking the field strip screw out, before forcing the valve out – turn off the safety, turn on the battery(or flip it to manual) and pull the trigger.
5. Do not overtighten the field strip screw, slightly past hand tight with an allen wrench is fine.
6. Never modify the valve or rail in any way so that the Z-lock pin does not glide thru the rail track.
7. Never overcharge the battery or allow anything that can carry an electrical current to directly connect the terminals of the battery.
8. Never loosen or remove the PC board, this is for advanced users ONLY. 
9. Do not allow moisture or liquid to come in direct contact with the electrical components of the marker or charger.

For Dummies
There are people out there who think they can achieve better performance by modifying parts. They are wrong. If the existing marker could reach a better performance as it is, it would come that way out of the factory.

10. DO NOT shave the sear, adjust the trigger rod, or the plunger rod length.
11. DO NOT modify the on/off pin length, you will end up with a marker that either wont work or wont be allowed anywhere. This also voids your warranty.

11. Debugging
In this section I will cover every possible problem I can think of or that I have encountered. I will continue to add to it as I remember and/or come across new bugs.

If your marker has any type of problem with it, the first thing you should do is check that your battery is charged, tank is full, look over all the o’rings, make sure every o’ring and part is installed in the proper order,  make sure everything is clean and oiled.

Since we’re dealing with an electric marker that can shoot in mechanical mode, the first thing to do is check or make it work in mechanical mode to help isolate the problem down to the mechanical or electrical portions of the marker. If the marker works flawlessly in mechanical mode, then skip down to the Electrical aspects.
Mechanical Aspects

Major and Minor Air Leaks –

When determining how to stop a leak, you must first find out where it’s coming from. This will help isolate what’s wrong.

1. A leak out of the velocity adjuster hole –

There’s a number of things that could do this. The most common is a bad reg piston or you are over pressurizing the reg so it relieves pressure to keep the valve from shooting hot(try turning down the velocity or making sure the air tank isn’t pumping out an extremely high amount of pressure). Other possible problems are a bad reg piston o’ring(check it and grease it), or too low of a velocity setting(try turning up the velocity). You will also get a leak if you do not pressurize the valve fast enough or there isn’t enough pressure to seal the valve itself.

2. A leak out of the side hole of the valve assembly(pictured below) –

This is a safety blow off feature made to keep the Retro quick recharge from becoming the supersonic ball slinger(no it wouldn’t be that bad).(Replace your reg. valve pin)

3. A leak from the On/Off area –
First make sure everything’s installed properly. Check that your on/off pin(.712″) is not bent or broken. You may have to clean or replace the o’ring that’s inside the on/off assembly, it unscrews into two pieces. If none of this helps, look to see that your trigger(2.125″) rod and plunger(3.008″) rod length are ok and that the trigger rod is pointing where it should be.

4. A leak from the front end of the valve or the bolt/breech area –
This could also be a number of things. Whether your running a level 7 or 10 set-up, I recommend checking those sections first.(also check the on/off pin(.712″) If after you have checked those areas and know everything is installed properly, continue reading. A bad bolt spring(broken or not extending past the bolt, also remember cut side goes on bolt end), sear, trigger(2.125″)/plunger(3.008″) rod length can give you a massive leak down the front. There’s also a two rare problems that can be wrong. If your running a level 10 set up, check your bolt bumper for wear, if the inner ring has begun to shred, pieces of it may be getting stuck in between the powertube and the bolt. The other problem may be a cracked powertube, if this is the case, you probably wont even be able to see the crack, but you will have to send the valve in to the factory to get it replaced(remember to call and get an RA number).

Marker Wont Cycle at All or Wont Cycle Reliably –

First things first, whether you are running  a level 7 or 10 set-up, check those sections first. Next step is to make sure you have a full tank , your velocity is turned up enough, and the marker is oiled. If it seems you cant get your velocity high enough, your reg spring pack may be shot or binding(try turning it up all the way and then turning it back out). Make sure your rail bushing is installed. If the trigger rod is pressurizing, check the rod for the proper 1/16″ gap behind the trigger when the trigger is forward(and/or check for proper trigger(2.125″)/plunger(3.008″) rod length). A simple mistake is a field strip screw that is too tight or too loose (especially if the valve is too reactive), just past hand tight is fine.

As far as the rest of the back side of the valve, your reg valve pin’s spring pack may be shot, or there may be debris inside the valve. To cover the on/off area, check to see that your on/off pin is not bent or has any burrs. Make sure the quad o’ring is installed and ok. The inner assembly o’ring may have collected dirt, check it by unscrewing the the assembly apart. If you recently installed a new valve, on/off, or on/off pin,  your pin may be too long or short(should be .712″).

To check the front side of the valve, look for debris between the powertube and bolt. As far as the rest of the marker, if you have installed grips or replaced lost grip screws, check that the grip screws are not touching the trigger rod when it moves. Make sure the sear axle pin is not overly tightened. I’ve personally seen markers that are so dirty between parts that they are out of tolerance, another point is that if you just had any of your marker parts painted, powdercoated, or bead blasted, you now know that it could also effect tolerance(if possible, remove the paint/powdercoating in between the frame/rail and between the rail/body. Aside from all this, you might have a bent rail or body(all it takes is a few thousands), send it to me or the factory to figure out.

Marker Chops or Breaks Too Much Paint –

If you are running a level 10 set up, see that section first. Another important section to look at is Nubbins and Ball Detents. Besides that, there are few things that would make you frequently chop or break paint. Make sure your not short stroking(mechanical mode). If your not running a level 10 set-up, you might need a faster loader or to change the batteries out in your current loader. Finally, make sure your paint fits your barrel. If none of this does the job, you need to dish out a few more bucks on some quality paint, or try and buy fresher paint.

Marker is Erratic Over the Chronograph –

Good Normal readings are anywhere plus or minus 10fps over the chrono. If your getting a difference of over 100fps, check your detent(see Nubbins and Detents). If you think it might be the valve, first dry fire to make sure it’s cycling properly. Check the valve for debris. Make sure it’s oiled. If nothing helps replace your reg. seat. Something you have to realize when chorno’ing is that most velocity fluctuations are caused by a bad paint to barrel match or poor quality paint(expensive paint is expensive for a reason). When I personally use good fresh paint, I will get a +/-0 reading over the chronograph, as soon as I go cheap, I will see a difference of up to 15fps.

Electrical Aspects
If you have gotten the marker to work in mechanical mode and that has still not solved the markers problems, then read on.
1. Is the battery fully charged?
Get a volt meter, it should read 20-22volts. If it’s not, make suer you charge it properly(see Charging the Battery). You may have to replace your battery or you may have a bad charger.
2. Does the board boot up?
Turn off, then on the marker. Make sure the firmware version lights up and that you can scroll through the menu. If it doesn’t, your trigger may be over adjusted (see section adjusting the trigger). If your sure the trigger is adjusted properly, check that your board is getting power. Check the positive lead for the nylon bushings, make sure everything is tight and that the wires are not being pinched. Follow the lead to the board, make sure everything is connected properly and that all connections are plugged in properly. Check that the negative terminal is securely in the grip frame. The board may not be grounding, disconnect the battery, unscrew the PC board and make sure there is no anodizing in the threads to keep the screw from making a good contact. If there is, use a dental pick to scratch it off and then replace the PC board. If none of this works, you may have a bad or fried PC board. Look over the board to see if there is a spot that the magic smoke escaped from.
3. The board boots up, but the marker still doesn’t fire.
If you have an Xmag, and your trying to dry fire, make sure your ace is off. Otherwise Listen for the solenoid when you pull the trigger. Make sure your not in trigger test mode and the solenoid is toggled on(provided your firmware has those features)(Holding menu button and pushing bottom button toggles solenoid). Make sure your trigger rod(2.125″), plunger rod(3.008″) and on/off pin(.712″) are proper length(You must also have the Quad o’ring installed in the on/off). The solenoid must have a little play, dont over tighten the mounting screw on the right side of the grip. If you have a multi meter, measure the solenoid for 2.6-2.8 ohms. If none of this does the job, you may have a bad solenoid or your plunger rod may be bent(it just takes a little bit), or your H.E.S. may need replacing(see adjusting the trigger).
Misc –
1. A stuck barrel (twist-lock) –

If it’s usually hard to get out, try loosening the allen screw under the twist-lock assembly, that will put less tension on the locking pin. The locking pin may be bent(get a new one) or the barrel may have developed a burr that needs to be removed.

Twist-Lock Assembly

2. Removing the trigger from the frame –
If you would like to remove the trigger from the frame to replace it with another, you will need a drift pin. Hit the trigger pin from the right side of the frame. When reinstalling a trigger, hit the pin from the left side.
3. Safety gets stuck –
Some are pickier than others, you may especially run into problems if you own a pre 1000SN Emag. Things I do that work ok is to remove and burrs in the safety that may catch, and/or slightly clip the spring that pushes up on the ball.

12. Aftermarket Parts

All there basically is(off the top of my head) for the Emag and/or Xmag as far as aftermarket parts that AGD does not make is Blade triggers(the dont make them for the E/Xmag but do for mechanical frames) and custom grips. There are a few different people who make their own versions of the blade trigger and the custom grips, to find out more info and ask.
Barrels –
Like with any other marker a good barrel can go a long way, dont think it’s the first upgrade you need though, the stock mag barrel is great.
Bodies –
To my knowledge there is only AGD bodies made for the Emag. If your looking for a custom body, AGD sales the Slug body which many people and companies have turned into some nice looking stuff. Look into it since it has the same inner dimensions as the AGD mag bodies, it will not cause tolerance issues.

Bolts –
None of them do squat but the level 10 – If you dont have one, Get one.
Drops, and Regulators –
It’s all personal preference but dont add any more Regs to your mag set-up.

Misc –
If you have a ULE body, that feedneck is Angel threaded, there are a bunch of different kinds out there so go ahead and get one if your unhappy with the stock one. I’d advise to only use AGD detents though.
**To my knowledge there are 2 different versions of morlock boards available for the E/Xmag but I do not recommend them.

13. Upgrades

The Obvious –
The best upgrades you can get for any set-up is a good air system and a good barrel kit. If your in the market for an adjustable air tank, I personally recommend the AGD Flatline system. If your looking for a screw-in tank, I recommend a Crossfire tank. As far as barrel kits go, I love the Custom Products CP Pro Kit.
Bodies (Emag) –
The ULE(Ultra Light Engineering) bodies are top of the line(54% lighter that the stainless bodies), available in 8 colors both in vertfeed and warpfeed. They are accept cocker threaded barrels, AGD/WDP threaded detents, and AGD/WDP threaded feednecks. Yes, they come with a detent and feedneck.
Valves and Bolts –
Newer Emags and all Xmags have Xvalves(w/ level 10 installed). If you have an Emag that doesnt have an Xvalve or level 10, I recommend looking into it.
ULE Parts (Emag) –
To completely convert your Emag into a ULE Emag you will need to get your hands on a ULE body, Xvalve, ULE Rail, CnC battery pack, and ULE Trigger frame. All these parts(except the ULE Trigger frame) are available through your local dealer or through Airgun’s online store. To get your Trigger frame turned into a ULE frame, goto and ask who can get it done.

Web site contents © Copyright Fat Bobs Paintball 2006, All rights reserved.

RKL X-mag

Originally posted on

OK Guys, I checked with Bob (RKL) and he is happy with me to show you some pics off the mill of his custom gun. The gun is in the raw so it’s hard to see some of the work due to cuttermarks which will be gone when it is anno’d.

This gun is I believe a first off in the World Of Paintball gun’s ever! Why? Let me tell you about a process called ‘scanniing’

Bob had a wall plaque of a face image that was about the size of a dinner plate. He wanted something similar to commemorate his time spent in England (he’s from Canada as you can tell from the gun  ) on his gun.

So we scanned in this wall decoration to make a virtual CAD file of it as an STL. I then manipulated this and shrunk it and embedded it into the side of the gun. We then recut this smaller version in the gun. It stands out proud like a real face. This process of reverse engineering is making huge waves in the CAM industry and has phenomenal potential, I work with it to do everything from full cars to small decorations.

It’s the first time I’ve heard of it being done to a paintball gun.

I’ll copy in some of an e-mail I sent Bob so you know other custom features I made into this body/gun.

“The Canadian Contingent (edit~ a Team Bob and I play for) patch is represented by the battery pack with an ‘A’ and tiny maple leaf in each corner and one large one in the middle, and you have finger dents on the front of the pack.

The body has the sides cut flat to make it lighter but it still covers the valve as much as possible. You have a C&C top site rail and front top. You have a special fillet and negative swish on the rear corners. You have the Bath Image milled as a proud (as a normal person’s) face (but in the body so protected from damage) on both sides. You have a Big maple leaf on both sides (edit~ which sculpts around the curved body).

The grip frame has the second finger recess. The cut down back strap and button locations. And it has the front finger grooves.”

DISCLAIMER: This is a custom gun done for Bob. It is not something you can currently buy from AGD or AGDE. It is something I did for a friend of mine. Having me do custom work on your gun can/may void your AGD warrantee if they haven’t approved it before hand. I do not work for AGD, I just have helped them before on some milling projects.

OK so now to the pictures. Please respect what is in this thread, to be honest neither I nor Bob cares if you like it so negative comments can be kept to yourselves please. The important thing for me is that Bob likes it and that it reminds him of a good stay in England once he returns to his native Canada. 


Before pictures:

Finished Product:

OK Guy’s here are the anodised pictures of Bob’s gun. Been a while coming because Bob doesn’t have a digital camera and I only just got chance to visit him and take the pictures.

Lots of pictures to do this thing justice.

This is the first of it’s kind, there are techniques used on this gun that are ‘State of the Art’ within CAD/CAM let alone paintball gun milling 

It was made as a one off custom for Bob who is a friend of mine and a life long AGD fan.

Oh yeah it’s on a rock… (actually on a stone cottage wall  )

Nice of Bob to keep it so clean don’t you think?

rkl01 rkl03 rkl04 rkl05

After Picture Gallery:


720 Xmag:


Created for Brad Palooza of 720 paintball videos.  He had Tunaman engrave his X-mag with the custom 720 logo.  Link to AO thread.

Picture Gallery:

Oddpb’s Bone Daddy X-mag:


Picture Gallery:

Butch’s Xmag:

Made for Butch from AGD pride to match his guitar.


Magma Xmag:

The “magma” X-mag came out around November 2003.  They were suppose to be sold at an event that didn’t pan out.  The original price was $1200.  They were bought and sold a few times and finally fell into the hands of two regulars.


Picture Gallery:

Manike Xmag:

This is the Xmag that Manike decided to pick up for himself.  One of the first Xmags on


Picture Gallery:

RKL X-mag:

The RKL X-mag was made by Manike for a friend.  Goto the RKL page for more details.


Picture Gallery:

Over 30+ pictures of the build.  Before and after pictures. Click here!!!

Shark Attack:


(3) SEAO Special Edition X-mags released around 11-18-03.  Tom Kaye was to personally sign each X-mag at the event.  Check out the AO thread for more info…. 

Shatner Xmags:

(3) 1 Purple, 1 Pewter, 1 Black Shater Xmags in existence.  They were created for William Shatner for his scenerio events he played.  They were auctioned off for a good cause.


William Shatner also used a Gloss Black X-mag as well.  It was auctioned off to AOer that had to pawn it  for cash.



There was also a Pewter Shatner X-mag for Mancow.




X-mag used by Claire Benavides.  Professional paintball player that used to play on teams such as AGD Pride and Femme Fatales.

“John Sosta” Dark Tequila sunrise: MOTM November 2012 Winner


And because I’m biased…. lol…  Custom John Sosta gripframe Xmag.  Click here for a full outline of the build.


The CnC Prototype was modeled after a motorbike saddle/fairing and takes 5 oz off the 11 oz body!

Before Pictures of the CnC Prototype X-mag.






After pictures of the CnC Prototype X-mag:










Below is the Aztec prototype.  No-one on AO liked it originally so it never went to production… (but then not everyone liked the C&C either…) It’s nicer in the flesh and feels very ‘primevil’ to hold. It’s definitely different.  The battery case was just following the same design theme around the X-mag ‘X’ logo…The way the metal cuts makes it very hard to appreciate it, and you can ‘see’ or not ‘see’ features purely depending on the direction the tool went across the surface.

Parts look very different once polished and annodised. It was amazing with the C&C how many people didn’t like it as a raw prototype but then loved it once polished and annodised. And also how many more people liked it once they saw it in real life rather than just in pictures.

Quite amazing really. And one reason I am not an advocate of showing prototype work too early on here anymore.

Also it sucks for you guys to see stuff so early in the prototype stages and expect to see it out the next month when in reality that just isn’t how it works.









Click here for Aztec Video 3:16





This was designed, based on an Idea from Bill Mills from Warpig, at the World Cup 2001. It was designed live on the AGD stand 🙂 People walking passed saw it developing!





Here are the batch pictures from when AGD posted these on AO.  It is currently a mixture of the first 3 batches.  If you have anymore please feel free to comment on the main page!!


AGD also came up with the Standard “STD” design.  This was the unmilled version of the X-mag.  When the X-mags first came out AGDE was also converting old E-mags into “Xtremes” as a body kit conversion.

Factory Version 1 Euro Xmag (Europe 2001):


  • Standard Lowers Or ULE Lowers
  • Emag Style Battery Housing
  • Matching Ano’d Trigger
  • ACE Board & Some had ACE Harness
  • EMag Valve
  • Matching PMI Perfect Barrel

Factory Version 2 Euro Xmag :


  • Standard Lowers Or ULE Lowers
  • Emag Style Battery Housing
  • Matching Ano’d Trigger
  • ACE Board & Some had ACE Harness (2 Ace Software versions)
  • Emag Valve & Few had Xvalves
  • Matching PMI Perfect Barrel
  • More milled off the front of the body under the barrel.
  • Fireblade Trigger aftermarket trigger shown.

AGD STD Cad Files:

Below are a few CAD files that Manike posted on  They were used as templates for the fantasy e-mag build that Tom put on….


Airgun Designs came out with a variety of CnC (Cut and Carved) Xmags.  Each batch of Xmags have slight differences between them.

**I would like to thank A-Tach-One for the X-mag listing posted over on

Factory Version 1 CnC X-mag (USA 2002):


  • Standard Xmag Battery Housing
  • Slightly more milled off the top of the body behind the breech.
  • ULE Lowers
  • ACE Board
  • Some had matching barrel
  • Xvalve “XMag” engraved
  • Some of these were ano’d by A+ Anodizing
  • Packaging – White Box

Factory Version2 CnC Xmag (USA 2003):


  • CnC Battery Housing
  • Slightly less milled off the top of the body behind the breech.
  • ULE Lowers (Some Frames have an oblong drilled ACE adjustment hole.)
  • ACE Board
  • Matching Barrel
  • Xvalve came either “XMag” or “X” engraved
  • Packaging – XMag Labled Boxes
  • XMag Manual CD Rom
  • Ano’d by PK Selective

Factory Euro CnC Xmag : (Europe 2002)


  • Emag Style Battery Housing
  • Matching Ano’d trigger.
  • ULE Lowers Or Standard Lowers
  • ACE Board
  • Matching Barrel
  • Xvalve “XMag” engraved

The AGD X-mag features:
  • Level 10 bolt technology means virtually no chops or barrel breaks
  • Internal ACE (Anti-Chop Eye) (patent pending) included at no extra charge
  • Predictive Sensing ACE Software
  • No visible wiring or components
  • Shoots any colour, shoots 2 colour paint
  • No User adjustment required, even when mixing paint colours
  • Modular Feed system (patent pending) change feed type from C/Feed to Warp Feed in seconds
  • All Modules fully ACE compatible
  • Cut & Carve version, machined on a 4th Axis CNC Mill
  • Revolutionary MAT system (Magnetically Actuated Trigger)
  • User adjustable to achieve the perfect trigger pull
  • Accepts standard Autococker barrels
  • Revolutionary Dual selector, switches from Electric to Manual operation
  • 45 Aluminium Grip frame standard
  • Operates on 18v Nickel Metal Hydride rechargeable battery pack
  • L.E.D. Display features countdown timer, shot counter, plus many other features[depending on software version]
  • Tested beyond 20 shots per second without shootdown


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